Jewelry-mounting.



C. T. PAYE.

JEWELRY MOUNTING.

APPLICATION FILED 050.30. 1914.

Patented Apr. 4,1916.

TED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

CHARLES T. PAYE, OF NORTH ATTLEIBORO, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO PAYE & BAKER MANUFACTURING COMPANY, OF NORTH ATTLEBORO, MASSACHUSETTS, A

CORPORATION OF MASSACHUSETTS.

J E W mLRY-MOUNTING.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed December 30, 1914. Serial No. 879,669.

T 0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that 1, CHARLES T. PAYE, a citizen of the United States, residing at North Attleboro, in the county of Bristol and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Jewelry-Mounting, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to articles of jewelry and consists particularly of an improved method and means for mounting ornamental heads, gem-settings or the like on hat-pins, scarf-pins, girdle-pins and other similar articles.

The object of my improvement is to simplify the construction and cheapen the cost of manufacture of the article while enhancing its artistic appearance.

The manner and means for carrying out the improvement are fully described in the following specification, illustrated by the accompanying drawing, in which Figure 1 is an enlarged, perspective view of my improved mounting shown in its simplest form as applied to a stem or pin; Fig. 2 is an enlarged, cross-sectional view of the same, illustrating the constructional. features; Fig. 3 is an enlarged, perspective view of the pin and its attached seatmemher to which the ornamental part is secured; Fig. 4 is a perspective, detail view of the main or essential mounting-element in its simplest form; Fig. 5 is an enlarged, sectional view of another form of mounting adapted to serve as a setting for faceted gems; Fig. 6 is a smaller view of another, more ornamental form of the mounting; and Fig. 7 is a cross-sectional view of the mounting shown in Fig. 6.

Heretofore it has been the usual practice in manufacturing pins or like articles of jewelry with ornamental heads to construct the ornament as a separate, complete element and to then attach it to the pin or stem either by soldering it thereto or swaging it thereon. Generally the ornamental part of the article, which in some cases might take the form of .a gem-setting, is constructed of precious metal while the pin or stem is of steel so that it is impracticable to solder the two together. For this reason the expedient has been generally adopted of soldering to the ornamental part of the pin what is known as a French head, or

accomplish this simplification in the construction and method of manufacture of the article I have devised an ingenious arrangement of the parts of the same as now described.

Referring first to Fig. 3, P designates the steel stem or pin to the end of which it is desired to apply an ornament. such,,for instance, as a gem setting. To the butt end of the stem P, I first attach a relatively thin plate or seat-member D which as here shown takes the form of a circular disk.

Any other form of member D may be used to correspond with the conformation of the setting itself, such as an oval, square, hexagon or other polygonal shape, the form here shown being the simplest .to illustrate.

The seat-member D is preferably soldered to the end of the stem P, or in some cases it might be struck-up as an integral part of the pin or shank on which the ornamentis to be mounted. Referring to Fig. 2, the gem or ornament G is set'in place with 'its bottom or flat face 9 abutting the top of the plate D, and usually it is of'such dimensions as to slightly overlap the plate around its edge. To secure the gem in position I now apply the flanged member C to the pin, this being constructed in the form shown in Fig. l. As here illustrated the memberv C'is made in the form of a cup-like disk or washer having an upturned rim or flange c and a central opening or pierced hole 0. Preferablypthe stock around the hole 0 is punched outward to form a narrow, curved flange or fillet-like lip c which gives a neater and more finished appearance to the pin when the member C is placed on the stem P as shown in Fig. 2. Another object of this forming or curling of the metal outward from the hole 0 is to insure a close fit for the member C against the bottom of the plate D. That is to say," if

there is any slight roughness or accumula tion of solder around the oint of the pin P on the plate D the rounded edge of the hole a will provide a clearance space so that the member C will not be prevented from being set up close against the bottom of the plate. It will be understood from reference to Fig. 2 that the stem or pin P is inserted through the opening 0 in the member C and the latter is then carried up against the plate D. With the gem G in place on the top of the plate D the rim 0 of the member C is next bent in or formed over the beveled edge of the gem in place against the top of the plate gems orjewels in their settings. When the parts are thus assembled the member G holds the gem in place against the top of the plate D, and the seating-member itself is also securely fastened to the plate and in this way secured to the stem orpin P. Through this arrangement a particularly secure setting and strong joint-structure is provided and a very neat and finished appearance given to the whole article. It will be observed that the soldered joint between the plate D and pin P'is entirely covered up and concealed while the connection between the pin P and member C is given a particularly neat and finished appearance. It is also to be noted that no tubular connection is required between the ornament and the pin, and therefore no swaging operation is necessary in assembling the parts.

In Fig. 5 I have illustrated a somewhat similar ornamental mounting on the pin P,

but in this case the setting for the gem S is made of concave form to adapt it to receive a faceted stone cut with a more-or less pointed under side.- That is to say, the seat-member is made in the, form of a conical cup adapted to conform to the convex under side of the stone S, and the fastening member B is also of a corresponding concavity to adapt it to fit snugly against the outer surface of the member E. As in the previously described arrangement the seat-member E is usually soldered to the end of the pin or stem P. In this case, as with the simpler form, the member B has a flanged rim or lip b adapted to be turned over the edge of the stone S or, if desired, a plurality of prongs could be formed on the rim of the member B to be bent down against the upper facets of the stone to secure it in place in the usual manner.

Figs. 6 and 7 illustrate a somewhat more elaborate embodiment of the invention in which the'mounting itself forms the chief ornament and the gem is added as a further embellishment. In this modification the fiat seat-member D is applied to the end of the stem P as in the first-described arrangement, while the memloer F is constructed in the form of anenlarged, ornamental, shell-like head. The head or ornament F may be of various and sundry shapes and configura.

or lip f adapted to be bent over the edge of the gem G and serving the same purpose as the flange 0 on the member G as previously described. lVith the parts assembled as shown in Fig. 7 the gem G is held securely in place against the seat-member or plate: D while the main element or ornamental head F is also secured to the seat D with its lower, reduced end. f surrounding the stem P, and partly supported thereby. It is to be imderstood, however, that the head F is secured to the pin P solely through its engagement with the seat-member D and no solder: ing or .swagingis required at its end 7.

In place of the. jewel or gem here shown any other suitable ornament might be set in the head of thepin, such as a medallion or cameo. The same method of construction can also be applied to ornamental heads in which a metal top is substituted in place of the gem or jewel. In fact, numerous other modifications mightbe made in the ornamental features of the article without affecting its structural design.

It is to be noted that the several parts of my improved mounting are eXtremely-simple in form and structure and therefore can be manufactured at a minimum cost. Their assembling requirespracticallybut one mechanical operation, that of, solderingthe seat-member in place on the stem, so that the labor cost of productionis also slight. By eliminating the tubular connection between the ornament and the pin I avoid the swag.- ing operation usually required to fasten the parts together and also obviate the soldered joint on the ornament itself. Since the seatmember is entirely covered up and concealed it can be constructed of steel or of, some basemetal which is easily joined to the steel pin" and for this reason the joint will also be more secure. Besides beingadapted for-use on pins, my improved mounting can also be applied to other-wire-like stems or-shanks, on such articles as bracelets, rings or other jewelry.

. Various modifications might be made'in the form and construction of the parts of my device without departing from the spirit.

or scope of the invention; therefore, without limiting myself to the exact embodiments shown and described,

What I claimis 1. In an ornamental mounting for articlesof jewelry, the combination with a pin-stem, of a seat-member fast on the end of the stem, an ornament arranged with its bottom seated against the top of the seat-member, and a flanged cup-shaped member inclosing the seat-member and abutting its under side with the stem projecting through its bottom, said cup-member having its flange bent over the edge of the ornament to draw the latter down against the seat-member to force said seat-member against the cup-member and thus permanently secure all of the parts together in fixed relation.

2. In an ornamental mounting for articles of jewelry, the combination with an elongated stem, of a relatively flat plate fastened to the end of said stem, a flanged cup-shaped member formed with a hole through which the stem is inserted to bring the cup-member into position abutting the under side of the plate, and an ornament arranged with its bottom face seated against the top of the plate with the flange of the cup-member bent over its edge to secure the ornament in place while also causing the ornament to hold the cup-member pressed against the bottom of the plate to permanently secure all of the several parts together in fixed relation.

3. In an ornamental mounting for articles of jewelry, the combination with a gem, of a seat-member shaped to conform to the bottom face of the gem, a stem having its end fixedly secured to the bottom of the seatmember, and a cup-member pierced with an opening to adapt it to be slipped over the stem to bring it into position abutting the under side of the seat-member and completely inclosing the latter, said cup-member having itsflange bent over the edge of the gem to draw the latter down against the seat-member while causing the gem to hold the seat-member against the bottom of the cupmember to permanently secure all of the flange bent over the edge of the gem to draw the latter down against the seat-member to force said member against the bottom of the cup-member, whereby the parts are rigidly secured together "in permanent relation with the seat-member entirely hidden from View.

In testimony whereof I aflix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

CHARLES T. PAYE.

WVitnesses ARTHUR A. ARMINGTON, HERBERT K. ALLARD.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, I). C. 

